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Jan Muisers ja The Gryllotalpa vaiheittain.
© step by step pictures and Fly Tyer :
Jan MuisersThe Gryllotalpa, Also called earth cricket or mole cricket.
The Gryllotalpa is a cricket that lives normally under ground in the surrounding of water. In the evening and night it crawls out of the ground and starts hunting. When it gets to the adult stage, it is able to fly and this is what I tried to imitate. Some moment in a actual wing stroke.
Material list :
Hook : Mustad S74S SS # 3/0
Tying thread :Uni 8/0 + Uni Caenis + UTC 70
Tails + Antennas: Mono 40 lb.
Under body : Chenille, micro chenille and dmc yarn ( a kind of knitting yarn ).
Abdomen : Raffia White.
“side skirts “: Raffia white.
Legs : Wire Japanese, nymphe legs, (micro) chinelle .
Claws : Uni 8/0 .
Wings : Tape, Mono 40 lb, synthetic quills, raffia brown, varnish and black marker.
Mouth feelers : wire, raffia brown and brown marker.
Thorax shield and head : Foam and raffia and brown marker.
Eyes : soft body and black marker.
Markers : sand colour, light umber and black.
Others : super glue. Soft body
1).Put the hook in the vice. The S74S SS, saltwater streamer.
2).For the under body tie in 2 pieces of chenille,3 cm long, starting at the hook eye, on the site off the hook. Make sure they stay parallel with the hook.
3).Tie in a second piece of chenille against the first once, with the same length. Make sure they stay straight and parallel with the hook shank.
4).Take 3 strains of dmc yarn and tie the on top of the hook shank, between the chenille. Lay them next to each other to avoid bulk forming.
5). Make a nice under ground with the dmc yarn. Take care that the strains lay next to each other while wrapping around the hook / chenille towards the hook eye and back.
6).When the first stage of the under body is ready, tie down the dmc yarn and cut away the remains.
7).Bring the tying thread towards the hook eye and park it there.
8 ). Tie the first segment. For this you take a piece of raffia , 3 cm long and 1 cm. Wide. Wind it around the hook shank and tie it down, against the hook eye.
9).Bring the tying thread 0,5 cm. Forward and fold the raffia forward. Roll it around the under body and tie it down where the thread is hanging.
10).The tails. Take a peace of mono, 5 cm long and thread one end of about 1,5 cm with sandpaper until you have a nice round and tapered tail.
11).Now tie it in so that approximately 1,5 cm’s is sticking out as being the tail. The rest is tied down in the middle of the body to help building up the under body.
12).Continue building up the under body. Tie in two pieces of chenille on the outside against the mono.
13).Two on the upper outside and one in the middle, on top of the hook, between the two previous
14).Tie in two strains of dmc yarn and make the under body smooth. You can pull real hard at the yarn, to get a solid under body but make sure you don’t “turn” the chenille to one side.
15).Make sure you taper the end of the abdomen. For this you can stop a little earlier with the yarn and smoothen the last part with your tying thread.
16).Keep on building up the under body. This time stay 5 mm from the front sow you will create a little taper there too. Tie in two stripes on the side and work your way up filling the entire under body with chenille.
17).Now build a little “bump” by tying in two pieces of chenille, 1 cm long, 0,6 mm from the hook eye, next to each other and one peace on top of these two.
18 ).Smoothen with dmc yarn.
19).Cut 2 stripes of raffia, 5 mm wide, and 10 cm long.
20).Tie the stripes one on the left and one on the right, where you make the next segment of the abdomen. Tie them parallel to the hook eye.
21).The side skirts should be in the lower part of the abdomen at about 1/3 from the bottom of the abdomen.
22).Tie the second segment. Cut away the remains.
23).Fold forward the two stripes of raffia. Make sure you don’t tie them really tight but leave enough to form the side skirt afterwards. On the picture: the one below is the strip tight in, the one above is how it will look after forming it. But that is for later.
24).Fold the two stripes of raffia backwards and tie them down at 3,5 mm from the last segment. This is the width of the segments: 3,5 – 4 mm.
25).Continue building up the abdomen. Take care that the side skirts are tight in on a straight line and not to high (Shown here with the tweezers).
26).Cut away the remains of the side skirts.
27).Now tie in two pieces of raffia, one on top and one on the bottom of the abdomen to create the last segment. The two pieces should overlap slightly.
28 ).Hind leg. Take a peace of thin wire and put a tying thread on.
29).Tie two pieces of tying thread, # 8 , on it to form the claws.
30).Form the foot with tying thread, 2 mm long. Go with you tying thread in an 8 figure around the claws. This way you insure that the thread doesn’t come of after cutting the wire.
31).If you wiggle the wire to much, it is possible that it breaks of after a while. To prevent that you can tie in a Japanese nymph leg along the complete leg from the foot on.
32).Tie in a 1 mm wide piece of raffia and wrap it around the wire/nymph leg to form the lower part of the foot. It should be 5 mm long.
33).To create the thick part of the leg tie in a piece of chenille with a length of 12 mm.
34).Tie on top of the first chenille two pieces of chenille which are slightly smaller than the previous one. You should get a small “hill”.
35).On top of this hill tie in a piece of chenille starting at the lower part of the leg and covering the whole hill.
36).This way you create a smooth surface to wrap the raffia around.
37).Tie in a piece of raffia, 1 mm wide and long enough to work with. I find a length of 10 cm very easy to work with, but you can make it shorter if you like. Wrap this around the chenille to form the skin of the leg.
38 ).Tie in two pieces of chenille, 2 mm long, at the end of the femur. This is the part that connects the leg with the body. Tie a 1 mm wide piece of raffia on the chenille and cover it with the raffia.
39).Colour the entire leg with a sand colour (prisma) marker and thread the upper side of the leg with a light umber (prisma) marker. Let it dry.
40).Whip finish the leg with for example a hollow pen.
41).Put a drop of varnish on the leg and let it dry.
42).Carefully cut the wire between the claws. Do not cut trough the foot thread.
43).Tie in the hind legs and cut away the remains of the wire.
44).Tie in two strains of dmc yarn and wrap it around the body/legs. This way you build op the body to the same thickness as the rest of the abdomen.
45).Now fold forward the piece of raffia on the underside of the body (from step 27), which will form the last segment including the hind legs. Tie it down with one or two wraps of your tying thread.
46).Do the same with the upper piece of raffia and tie down. Cut away the remains of both pieces.
47).Colour the underside, the side skirts, and a small stripe above the side skirt with a sand coloured marker.
48 ).Colour the rest with a darker brown colour. Here light umber (prisma) marker.
49).Tread the complete abdomen with varnish but do not varnish the side skirts yet. Let it dry.
50).If the body is dry, tread the side skirt with varnish and form them into the desired form. Keep forming it until the varnish is dry. If you think it is to wide you can cut it to it’s desired shape after it is completely dry.
51).Build up the under body for the thorax, the same way you did the abdomen. If it is half the thickness of the abdomen tie off the yarn and cut away the remains.
52).Make the middle pair of legs, the same way you made the hind legs but make then slightly smaller.
53). Tie in the middle legs about 5 mm. from the hind legs.
54).Continue building up the thorax to the thickness of the abdomen, slightly going smaller towards the head area.
55). When satisfied with the under body, tie in a piece of raffia, 2 mm. wide and wrap it around the under body in order to create a nice “skin“.
56).Colour the thorax area, the same way you did with the abdomen.
57).When dry, apply a thin layer of varnish on the coloured area and let dry.
58 ).Cut a piece of foam in a triangle shape. The place where you tie it to the hook is 4 mm. wide and 1 cm. farther it should be 1 cm. wide.
59).Tie this to the hook to almost halfway the bent.
60).Start building the head with micro chenille, the same way the rest of the under body is made. The head should go from small to the mouth side to wide at the neck area. Stop if the neck area is half the thickness of the thorax.
61).Tie in two strains of dmc yarn and wrap around the head area. Tie down and cut away the remains.
The maxillary palps are the 4 feelers which are part of the mouth. 2 large once which have 4 segments and 2 smaller which have 2 segments.
62).Take a thin wire and put the UTC 70 on.
63).Cut a piece of raffia, 2 mm. wide and 5 cm. long.
64).Lay it length wise over the thread and fold it around the wire. Now make, with your tying thread, 1 lose wrap and than pull it tight. Repeat this 2 times more and bring your tying thread 3 mm. back = the length of 1 segment.
65).Fold back the raffia and wrap it around the wire.
66).Tie down the raffia with 1 lose wrap and if the segment is ok, pull tight. Lay 1 more wrap over the first one.
67).Pull back the raffia, wrap it around the wire and secure with 3 wraps of your tying thread. Actually it is the same as when you make a abdomen segment, only smaller.
68 ).When finished colour the feeler with a brown marker.
69).Whip finish the feeler and put a drop of varnish on it. Let it dry.
70).Shorten the wire, if necessary but do not cut it at the top of the feeler, yet. Leave a short piece of wire.
71).Prepare all the feelers this way.
72).Now you can cut the wire at the top end and dip the point ( and only the point ) into soft body or similar. This indicates the slightly thicker part of the end of the feelers.
73).Put the fly back in the vice, up side down. Tie in a piece of raffia, 1 mm. wide, and wrap it a few times around the head, were the mouth area is. DO NOT cut the remains. You will need it later.
74).Tie in the short feelers in such a way that 1 segment is past the point of the snout.
75).Tie in the long feelers. They should be on the out side of the short feelers and there should be sticking 2 segment in front of the short feelers.
76).If all are feelers are at there right place, secure them with tying thread and cut the remains of the wire.
77).Take the piece of raffia, from step 73, and wrap it around the head area. Tie it down, cut remains and colour it with a sand colour marker.
As you can see is the head area still to small. I have done this because if you build up the head completely before tying in the feelers, the head will become to thick. Now is the time to complete the head.
78 ).Tie, on each side of the head a piece of chenille, 8 mm. long.
79).Tie in 2 more pieces of chenille, 4 mm. long, each on 1 side but on top of the previous once. Leave a small gap in between them.
80).To check if the head shape is good, fold the foam carefully back. The foam should cover the chenille. Secure it with ONLY 1 loose wrap.
81).Tie in a piece of raffia, 1 mm. wide and wrap it around the head, on both sides of the feelers. DO NOT cut the remains.
With the next few steps work VERY carefully.
82).Fold the foam back and secure it with 2 loose wraps of your tying thread. Be careful not to tare the foam and very importend..remember the tension which you pulled it back. You have to use the same tension when you tie it down definitely.
Mark the place where the eyes will come, with a pencil.
83).Carefully penetrate the foam with a needle where the antennas have to come. This is between and just under the eyes.
84).Take 2 antennas, which you made by sandpapering 40 lb mono to a nice tapered piece. Colour the first 2 cm. with a dark brown marker. This will indicate the place to tie down the antennas.
85).Carefully stick the antennas through the wholes, made with the needle, until the spot where you coloured them.
86).Again and I can’t say it enough, CAREFULLY pull the foam with the antennas back on the same position as you did in step 82. Hold the foam and the remains of the antennas, which lay between the 2 pieces of chenille ( step 79 ) down with a finger. Now hold, with a finger of the other hand, the remains of the antennas, which stick over the body, down and secure with 2 wraps of you tying thread. If you are satisfied with the shape of the head and the place of the antennas carefully fold back the foam and secure the antennas definitely.
87).With the raffia, left from step 81, cover the rest of the head area. Tie it down and cut the remains from the antennas and the raffia.
88 ).Carefully pull back the foam ( use the same tension as before) and tie it down with several wraps.
89).With hot tweezers points you can bent the antennas to shape. Make sure you DO NOT touch the foam with the hot tweezers. It gives a difference in colour later on. It happened here on the picture. Look around the antennas at the foam. The problem is that the colouring of the head is one of the last steps. Yes… I had to learn the hard way and start all over again. So try to avoid it.
90). Cut away the remains of the foam and put a few more wraps to tie down the edge. Again, I left a picture of the “burned” foam. You can see it clearly here. It is a shame and very annoying if you have to go back for about 50 steps and start again.
91).Colour the underside of the head apply a thin layer of varnish. But ONLY on the under side.
The wings.
92).Make a mould of the wings. 1 wing should be 3,5 cm. wide and 2 cm. high. The opening between the two wings should be 0,5 cm.
Make sure you leave a tying in tag on the upper side of the wings ( in the middle ). It is better to make them out of 1 piece. You avoid building up a bump when tied in, what happens if you make them separate.
Look at the 2 thick lines on each wing. They are made on purpose. ( see step 94).
Tape the mono on a solid underground and put a piece of tape over it with the sticky side up.
93).Treat some 40 lb mono until it is flat and about half the thickness of the original mono. Colour with a sand colour marker and let it dry.
94).Place the flattened mono on the thick line (on the sticky side of the tape) The original wings have these thicker veins the stabilise the wings. It is a giant insect, after all.
95).Fill up the rest of the veins with the brown synthetic quills.
96).Put a brown piece of raffia on the tape and press hard to get writ of the air bubbles.
97). To create nice veins press the raffia next to the veins down with bent tweezers. Do not tare the raffia.
98 ).When satisfied put 2 or 3 layers of varnish over the wings. Let the previous one dry before applying the next one.
99).With a pen, mark the outlines of the wing pair and cut them out.
100).Tie the wings on the fly just behind the middle pair of legs.
101).Tie in a piece of raffia, 6 mm. wide and 5 cm. long, on the underside of the body until just in front of the hind legs.
102).Tie in a stripe of raffia, 1 mm. wide and 10 cm. long and wrap it around the thorax.
103).Also wrap it around the wings in an 8 figure to cover up the tying thread. Cut away the remains.
104).Colour the raffia and put a drop of varnish on it. Let it dry.
The front legs.
105).Take a thin iron wire ( you can also use Japanese nymph legs) and put the thread on. Treat the thread with extra (dubbing) wax. This insures that, when tying the micro chenille, it will not be so slippery.
106).Take a piece of micro chenille and a lighter. Move the micro chenille over the flame, not in it.. the chenille will burn .. until it melts together and roll it between your fingers.
107).The micro chenille will get a fine point. This will be 1 claw of the foot.
108).Tie the micro chenille on top of the wire. Let 2 mm stick out for the claw and tie down 4 mm. to the wire, to create the foot. Cut of the chenille after the 4 mm.
109).”Burn“ a second claw and tie it on top of the first one. Make sure that it is slightly larger than the first on. Cut the chenille at the same place as the first on.
110).”burn” the third one. Twist the 2 tied in claws up side down and tie the third claw on the wire. This time it should be slightly shorter than the one below. Cut the chenille at the same place.
111).Do the same with the fourth claw. Again slightly shorter than the previous one.
112).Turn the foot over again, so the longest claw is on the upper side. Burn a new claw and tie it to the side of the foot, almost vertical. The length should be the same as the longest of the four claws. Cut the chenille as short as possible but within the foot area.
113).Burn the last claw and tie it next to the previous claw but slightly shorter. Cut the chenille within the area of the foot.
114).The completed foot with its size. Remember that this are cm. so its 7 mm. long. This is the foot for a fly with a length between 5 and 6 cm. Do not make it larger, it doesn’t look nice.
115).It is good to stay calm, tying in the claws but do not let it come this far… cheers.
116).Cut a stripe of raffia, I mm wide and 5 cm. long.
117).Tie the stripe to the foot and start wrapping it around the foot.
118).When satisfied with the foot, tie the raffia down and cut the remains.
119). Colour the foot with a sand colour marker.
120).Treat the complete foot with a thin layer of varnish.
121).Tie 2 pieces of chenille on the wire, against the foot. The should be 1 cm. long. Tie one on top and one on the under side of the wire.
122).Tie a third piece of chenille on the upper side but slightly shorter than the first one. Now do the same on the under side.
123).In order to make it easier to work, put a drop of varnish on the chenille. Let it dry for a while but do not wait until it is completely dry. It becomes to hard then.
124).Tie in a piece of chenille, 5 mm. long, in the middle, on the upper side of the leg.
125).Now tie a piece of chenille, from the foot, over the small piece, down to the end of the leg. This way you create a round upper part of the leg and when winding the raffia around it, it creates a smooth surface.
126).Cut a stripe of raffia, 2 mm. wide and 10 cm. long and tie it to the side of the leg. You have to cover up the whole leg section so don’t make the raffia to short.
127).Wrap the raffia around the leg section until it is completely covered. Cut the remains.
128).Colour it with a sand coloured marker and put a drop of varnish on it.
129).Tie in 4 small pieces of chenille, 2 mm long, around the wire, against the femur. This will be the part that connects the leg with the body.
130).Tie in a 1 mm. wide piece of raffia and wrap it around the chenille.
131).Colour the last part of the leg with the same marker as you used fot the rest of the leg and aplay a thin layer of varnish. Let this dry.
132).Now carefully cut the wire between the claws and whip finish the leg.
133).Colour the tips of the claws with a black marker.
134 And that bend the middle section of the leg like a bow.
135).Tie in the front legs. The tips of the claws should stick just in front of the longest ( mouth)feeler when the legs are folded forward.
136).Tie in 2 strains of dmc yarn and wrap them around the body/front legs until the body has the wright proportions.
137).Again tie in a piece of raffia, 1 mm. wide, wrap around the body, clour it and put a drop of varnish on it. Let it dry.
138).Make the second part of the wings. The widest part is 1 cm. wide and it is 1,5 cm. long without the tying in tag. Make it the same as the big wings with synthetic quills. This time use black quills or colour them with a black marker.
139).Do the same with the third part of the wings. These are 2 mm. wide and 1 cm. long. This part of the wing is to small for the quills so I used a black marker for the veins.
140).Tie in 1 side of the third part of the wings. Try to use as less wraps of your tying thread as possible.
141).On top of the second part, tie the third part of the wings. They should lay in the middle of the second part.
142).Repeat the last 2 steps with the other side of the wings.
143).Tie in a piece of raffia, 2 mm. wide, and cover up the tags from the wings and the thread on the underside by wrapping it around the body. If you moved the legs and they where damaged you can wrap the raffia also around the legs a few times, to cover it up.
144).Fold the raffia, from step 101, forward and tie it down after you straiten it . If you haven’t used your thinnest tying thread, whip finish the fly and remove the thread. Other wise you can leave the thread.
145).Colour the thorax with a sand colour marker.
146).Put a drop of varnish on it. Let it dry.
147).To make the thorax shield, cut a piece of 1mm. foam in the form, shown on the picture. It is 1.4 cm. by 1.4 cm. Cut the edges round. The side which lays in the neck should be slightly smaller.
148).Take 2 pieces of raffia. Put on 1 of them some varnish and “glue” them together. When dry, cut the raffia in the same shape as the foam shield. Leave the head side and the back side a little shorter.
149).With a drop of superglue glue the foam and raffia shield together. Leave a small ( as small as possible) tying in tag at the front and the rear. Let it harden.
150).Put your smallest tying thread on the fly. Now take a thick thread ( yarn or wool) and make a loose loop around the fly between the hind and middle legs.
This is to fasten the shield on the thorax to make it easier to tie it down. This yarn will be removed later on. Be careful when you use tying thread for this. It can cut into the foam.
151).Put your thorax shield in the loop and tighten it.
152).Now comes the tricky part. Fold back the foam, so you can see the tying in tag. Tie down the shield, first the front, than the back side. When satisfied, whip finish the fly on the upper side. This way the knots will sit under the thorax shield and won’t be seen. The tying steps are finished now.
153).Colour the head and the thorax shield with a darker, here light umber prisma colour, marker. The best way to do it is to dip with the marker on the foam instead of making strokes.
154).Let the colour dry for a while. Then lay a thin layer of varnish over the head and thorax and let it dry. DO NOT touch the colour. It doesn’t dry completely. You will get ugly stripes in the colour.
155).Mark the spot where the eyes will come, with a pencil.
156).To make the eyes, put a small drop of soft body ( or similar ) on the marked places. Do not try to make them in 1 step. Put 3 or 4 small layers over each other, but after the previous one is dry. Colour each layer with a black marker. If you didn’t do it yet you can trim the claws to its length, 1 mm, and colour it with a sand colour marker.
In theory your fly is ready now, but if you want to give it some extra action you can make it fly.
157)For this you can take a piece of foam, 1 cm. thick or any other material that is that thick but it should be very light. In the middle of this piece you cut out a piece which is slightly wider than the body of the fly.
158).On the underside, cut it like a taper, but only on 1 side.
159).Now stick it over the thorax and under the wing.
160).It is up to you how far you want your wing up. If you are satisfied with its position apply 1 or 2 layers of varnish on the wings. Let them dry very good before taking the foam away.
© step by step pictures and Fly Tyer :
Jan Muisers
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